Bent Creek Winery
Monday, January 28th, 2008A visit to Bent Creek Winery
Friday 25 January 2008, by Bruce Shore
A wet and overcast day tends to draw one indoors; an afternoon in a
winery is a pleasant venue for whiling away such a day, as I observed
during a Friday afternoon visit to the tasting room of Bent Creek
Winery. The trip there from central Livermore takes one past the
flat vineyards along Tesla Road, and the wineries along that scenic
corridor, to Greenville Road, very much in the countryside. There one
turns south towards the mountains, passing on the left the small
asphalt landing strip from which Jim Nissen used to fly his biplane
and then the newer golf course of Poppy Ridge, while on the right one
sees fine new houses embedded in vineyards. As one approaches the
foothills one lettered signs of several wineries appear; to the
right, along a driveway, is the Bent Creek vineyards and
winery.
The tasting room is a modest structure, adjacent to the home of one
of the owners and surrounded by the vineyards from which comes their
wine. On a typical balmy California day one would be standing
outside, imbibing the serenity of the hillsides over which rows of
grapevines lie and through which wanders the Bent Creek from which
the winery takes its name. On the day of my visit an overcast sky
deposited a light drizzle of rain, and the vines glistened with
droplets; it was certainly a lovely scene, but best viewed through
windows.
In addition to the surroundings, which would provide a good
destination for any visitor, two aspects of the little visit were
notable: the wines, of course, and the story behind the founding of
the business, some decade ago.
The history of Bent Creek as a winery begins with the retirement of
Tom Heineman, one of the four owners, from his career in the
Livermore Schools. Looking around for something to provide a
challenge, he accepted the suggestion of his wife Pat (a retired
schoolteacher) to consider growing wine grapes. He studied in the
Enology Department at UC Davis, and became familiar there with
viticulture — the growing of grapes. He sought advice from the
winemaker at Concannon, who agreed to buy Syrah grapes for their own
use. Encouraged by this the Heinemans purchased their dozen acres of
hillside and went into the grape business. Their first vines were
planted in 1996, and the first harvest came in 2000. They were soon
joined by two other retirees, Carol and Rich Howell, and together
they began, aided by further study at UC Davis, to make their own
wine. (Carol was the principal at Jackson Avenue Elementary School
when one of our sons was a pupil there, and Rich was a physicist at
LLNL.) The business remains a two-family concern, with Tom in charge
of the vineyards, Rich doing the winemaking, Carol handling the
business and Pat tending to the legal matters. All four of them now
contribute to the wine blending, one of the key steps toward
producing a satisfactory wine. Friday through Sunday, when the
tasting room is open, one of them is always there to greet visitors
and to explain their wines.
The winery has won their share of awards at the annual San Francisco
Chronicle wine competition, one of the most prestigious competitions
in California. I asked Tom whether they were influenced in their
blending by what wine judges seemed to favor, and he answered that
they were more influenced by what their customers preferred.
They typically offer two white wines and 5 reds plus two ports, but
the output is but a few thousand bottles, so it is not unusual for a
visitor to find a particular wine unavailable. (A few bottles are set
aside for members of their wine club, which you can join , at no
cost, by agreeing to purchase a consignment of wines each year.) The
prices are very affordable, ranging from $15 to $30; there is no fee
for tasting.
The whites are a Sauvignon Blanc (from Mendocino grapes) and a
Chardonnay (from their adjacent vines). The trick to producing a
successful Chardonnay, as Tom explained to me, is to judge how long
the wine should remain in the stainless steel fermenting tanks, and
what portion of the wine should be stored in oak barrels to gain
desired flavors. The two wives, Pat and Carol, are in charge of this
aspect of the winemaking. Both of these wines were agreeable; I
bought a bottle of their 2005 Chardonnay.
They make a very nice Zinfandel, from their own local grapes. From
one of the visitors that day I learned that there is quite a
community of Zinfandel fanciers, and that this weekend they will
gather at Fort Mason in San Francisco for an annual tasting of
several hundred Zinfandels. I was told that Zinfandel, as a varietal,
is particularly suited to California, and that few other places in
the world are able to grow it successfully; certainly I have not
found it amongst offerings of European vintners. The Bent Creek
Zinfandel is, Tom said, a blend of three varieties, all from their
local Hansen vineyard. Similarly, their Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend
of three clones. As with many wineries, Bent Creek produces a house
blend of red wines; called Red on Red it is a blend of 35% Cabernet
Sauvignon and 65% Syrah. Rich is in charge of the red-wine making,
but I gather other members of the team help with the judging of the
blending.
In the past I have particularly relished their Cabernet Franc, good
for an evening of sipping, but their supply is at present exhausted.
Never mind, there are other good reds.
Rich Howell, their winemaker, is particularly proud of his two ports
($23), a Vintage Port and a Petit Sirah Port. These very definitely
make a fine way of finishing an elegant meal, perhaps with some rich
chocolate-based dessert.
As Tom explained, the making of a port wine proceeds much as that of
a red wine, but the fermentation of the grape sugar is halted at a
selected moment by the addition of brandy. The art here is the
selection of the brandy and the timing of the fermentation halt;
their Vintage Port is timed to have 9% residual sugar, a bit lower
than many ports, but quite sweet enough for my taste.
Like many of the other small wineries that now comprise the Wine
Country of the Livermore Valley, Bent Creek is an undertaking of long
time residents, very much a (two) family undertaking, where one
senses not only the caring crafting of wine, but one can enjoy a
comfortably homely rural setting for wine tasting.
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