Mitchell Katz, winery and winemaker, 2 March 2008

  Bruce Shore

Mitchell Katz is both a winery and a winemaker , and each provides
good company for an afternoon of wine-related relaxation. The winery
itself, owned  by Katz, his wife Alicia and by Mike Callahan (owner
of nearby newly opened Ruby Hill Winery), occupies an historic
location in the vineyards between Pleasanton and Livermore, on aptly
named Vineyard Road. One approaches the winery through an avenue of
tall old palm trees (giving their name to the adjacent Palm Event
Center). The building itself, viewed against a backdrop of vineyards
and hills, is constructed largely from bricks that were salvaged from
the the old Stony Ridge Winery building, destroyed by fire in 1989,
on a site that had been a winery since the 19th century. In form,
the present building  mimics the old warehouse and gives the
impression of antiquity.

The entrance to the tasting room is through this doorway, in the
restored building that formerly housed the Stony Ridge Winery,
destroyed by fire in 1989. The lintel is original; the bricks have
been reconditioned from the old building.

Mitch, the winemaker, is an energetic fellow, a former football
player in high school and college, whose major vocation has been in
the construction industry — a steamfitter. Influenced by his English
grandfather, who used to make fruit wine, Mitch became a home
winemaker and then, encouraged by that success, he paired with
Callahan to become a professional winemaker, currently overseeing the
production of up to 8 thousand cases. His wines, predominantly red,
come primarily from various small vineyards in the Livermore area,
each of which is identified by name on the printed list of tasting
wines.

The tasting room is large, housed as it is in the reconstructed Stony
Ridge winemaking barn. On the Sunday afternoon of my visit there were
four servers behind the long counter, at which more than a dozen
patrons were sampling the many offerings. A fire in the brick
fireplace at the other side of the room offered comforting warmth,
adjacent to a barrel from which the servers would from time to time
draw samples for tasters, using a glass “wine thief”.

Manager Michael Charles uses a  glass “wine thief” — a glorified
pipette — to draw wine from a barrel of the current version of the
Fat Boy wine.

My host at first, before meeting winemaker Mitch himself, was Michael
Charles, tasting room manager. His expertise on the winery history,
the wines and details of the vineyards, made the time pass very
quickly, as my wife and I sampled the many wines available: three
whites,  more than a dozen reds and three ports, with prices ranging
from $12 to $36. Following are some notes on some of the wines we
sampled; each was delightful in its own way.

Our first sample, Brut Sparkling wine, bore the Mitchell Katz label
but comes from the Black Ridge Canyon winery in Lodi. It is said to
make an outstanding “Mimosa” when combined with peach and mango
juice. Though not made locally, it is served along with Mitchell Katz
wines at the Palm Event Center adjacent to the winery, for weddings
and other functions.

2006 Pinot Grigio (called Pinot Gris in Oregon)  comes from the Ted
Buttner vineyard in Sunol (his third harvest), where cooling breezes
lead to low acid. It is aged in stainless steel, rather than in the
oak that is used for other varietals.

2005 Chardonnay Reserve comes from the Shadow Hills vineyard of Dr.
Bud Grice,  was aged 2 months in new French oak, and has undergone
partial mallolactic fermentation to lower the acid and give it a
buttery feel.

2005 Sangiovese (with 5% Zinfandel to compensate for the growing
conditions that year ). The grapes come handpicked from the 1.5 acre
Crackerbox Vineyard in Livermore (a name taken from the Crackerbox
class of racing boat enjoyed by the owners).  The Sangiovese grape
traditionally provides the basis for Chianti Classico in Italy.
Available for tasting, but not yet for buying, the 2006 Sangiovese
will not be blended; it will have all the robustness needed; my wife
an I rated that near the top of their list of wines.

2005 Merlot contained 5% Petite Sirah to add tannins and earthiness
to balance natural fruitiness. This comes from the Falling Star
Vineyard of Chuck and Lisa Otteast of Poppy Ridge, south of
Livermore, where the hilly terrain give good drainage and a
concentration of juice. Anther favorite with the two of us.

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, comes from the vineyard of Peter Clark on
Tesla Road beyond Livermore. Aged in American oak  (a bit more smoky
and spicy than French Oak), this had medium body and soft tannin, and
was fully ready for immediate enjoyment.

Tasting room manager Michael Charles displays a bottle of 2004 Fat
Boy, of which the winery is particularly proud.

Fatboy is the name Mitch has given to their pride and joy, a
specially tended Cabernet Sauvignon blended with 5% Petite Sirah and
aged 2 years in French Oak. The name was chosen because, like the
“Fat Boy” atomic bomb, it is said to “blow you away” with its awesome
taste. The grapes come from the Jim McGrail ranch, on Crane Ridge
south of Livermore.

Owner and winemaker Mitch Katz welcomes your reporter to the tasting
room. Katz was inspired by his grandfather to take up winemaking, and
oversees the business while maintaining a career in the heavy
construction business.

2005 Zinfandel from Harold’s Home Ranch in Sonoma is one of the few
wines whose grapes do not come from a local vineyard.

2005 Zinfandel from the adjacent Ruby Hill vineyard was awarded a
silver medal by the SF Chronicle, and was one of our very favorite
wines. Aged in new American oak, it has more alcohol and some
residual sugar; it was a very mellow wine ready for sipping or
dinner. Distinctly different than the Sonoma Zin.

2005 Petite Sirah, from the Ruby hill vineyard in the acreage
surrounding the winery, was another silver medal winner. Deservedly
so, we thought.

2005 Syrah, from Peter Clarks Livermore vineyard won best of class at
the California State Fair. One could get a hint of boysenberry with
spices, and lots of structure, which would make it a good
accompaniment to a full meal.

We sampled three of their ports, each excellent: a 2005 Sangiovese
Port, in part from Crackerbox Vineyard;   a 2005 Zinfandel Port,
titled Liquid Love and based on three varietals; and their 2004 Tawny
Port, from Cabernet grapes from the Matt Walker ranch in Carmel. The
light tawny color, contrasting with the more familiar dark color of a
port wine, comes from fermenting without the skins wherein lies the
major source of dark color.

The pastoral views of vineyards, the restored brick winery, the
backdrop of hills, add to the pleasure of the large and excellent
selection of wines, to make a visit to Mitchell Katz a good choice
for either locals or touring visitors. Their list of wines available
for tasting is extensive, with examples of each of the wines for
which the Livermore region is known.

See Back Roads Wine next year at the “Naples Winter Wine Festival” Back Roads Wine is your Livermore Independent Wine Advocate!